OCTOBER 2005
I am sitting here listening to the sounds of Bach on our iPod and the most amazing sounds of the cackle of hyaenas – with what must be several little pups - interspersed with the grunt of a leopard – somewhat surreal! We have closed the camp for the end of the season, although there are still many wildebeest and zebra in the area. A huge bull elephant greeted me the other day just below my tent – it is great to see some good size tusks again after all those years of poaching.
We had a great month with many guests who saw the big five, and more than they could take in of the migration, great river crossings and all that the area is famous for. But most pleasing was that our guests said that after one day in the reserve they were more than happy to return to both the ambience of the camp and to a magical, vehicle-free area and just watch the animals around us. There is such a difference in the behaviour of ‘our' lion who are still rather wary and wild - very different to the Mara cats, who tend to lol about much of the time. There is a certain frisson when you come across a lion with its ears back and crouched in the grass. Lion researchers, Niels Mogensen and Munyoki, are staying in camp, and their work will make it easier for us to track lion movements in the area and of course to learn more about the predators.
Several guests were treated to the eclipse of the sun through a special filter on the telescope on the deck of the library tent - an amazing view as it covered probably seven eighths of the sun and the birds all stopped singing for a while. It was a cloudless day so even more spectacular. Folk will travel miles to see an event such as this – so that was a special bonus. Perfect timing too for a perfect sunset and sundowners.
We are in the process of making a bird list and can't believe how many there are – our three huge fig trees near the library tent are in full leaf again and we've seen the green pigeons, Brown's parrots, tinkerbirds, barbets, batis, bulbuls, paradise flycatchers and woodpeckers all at the same time! If you are keen on bird watching the new zoom digital cameras provide an easy identification tool with a drink and the new Terry Stevenson/John Fanshaw bird guide to hand. Professor Len Newton from Kenyatta University is helping us to make a list of Succulent plants in the area, and in a weekend we spotted over 35 species.
A Honeymoon couple who were with us for four nights were treated to a ‘Maasai Olympics' up on the plain behind the camp. Our hardened and experienced Wakamba, Walyangulu and Maasai tested their skills with bows and arrows and spears for a small bounty. Our young Maasai steward, John Kiama won both events and then there was a final game of English – sorry Scottish - Rounders using Maasai spears as bases, which strangely our Scottish guests won!